Freesias are beautiful, fragrant South African herbs with yellow or white flowers that bloom in winter. Since the introduction of hybrid varieties with large flowers in many lovely and delicate shades, freesias have further gained in popularity. These hybrids are the results of crosses made between the white F. refracta varieties and the colored F. x hybrid. Flowers bloom in salmon orange, buff, lovely lavender pink, golden yellow with an orange blotch, rosy salmon with a golden yellow throat, light purple, and many other fine shades.

During its blooming season, G. jasminoides must be kept thoroughly wet and not allowed to dry out, but in winter it is kept fairly dry. G. Veitchii is an ever blooming gardenia, the most popular hothouse or house plant variety.

Freesia corms, usually but incorrectly called bulbs, should be planted indoors in August. The large corms, measuring 3.4 inch in diameter, are the first ones to bloom; smaller ones, 1.2 inch in diameter, require a longer time and are likely not to bloom until April.

The culture of freesias is quite simple. The corms and plants are tender and must never be subjected to freezing temperatures. They are suited to house culture exclusively. Success depends primarily upon correct temperature. Prepare a special soil mixture composed of one-third each of leaf mold or shredded peat moss, good rich garden soil and fine clean sand. Moisten the mixture moderately and place it in pots or deep bulb pans, first covering the drainage hole with a few pieces of broke flowerpot. Five or six corms can be planted in a five-inch pot, from eight to ten in a six inch pot.

Some gardeners have found that freesia corms are surer to bloom if they are dried thoroughly for about two weeks on a sunny windowsill. When planting, space the corms about two inches apart and press them into the loose soil mixture so that the tips are covered with from ” to one inch of soil. Next, place the pots or pans, without watering them, in the shaded window of a cool room where the temperature remains between 45 and 55 F. (7.22 to 12.78 C). Under such conditions root growth will commence promptly. When the sprouts break through, place in a south window. It seems that the colored varieties do better if the temperature is kept at 55 to 60 F(12.78 to 15.56 C)

At the end of the second season the seedlings are usually large enough to be transplanted to their permanent beds six to eight inches apart each way, with the root socks covered to a depth of about two inches. The soil should be kept free from weeds and the plants liberally watered throughout the growing season. For satisfactory growth the plant requires about 75 percent shade during summer.

Always keep the plants as close to the window as possible, but beware that they are not harmed by the frost during cold nights. The foliage must never be allowed to touch the glass of the window. A few thicknesses of paper placed between the plants and the glass during extra-cold nights will be an added protection. Water moderately, but never let the soil dry out. When the buds begin to open very weak liquid manure may be substituted for the water to encourage long flower spikes set with larger blooms, Support flower stem with four or five short, thin stakes stuck around the edge of the pot connected with thin twine. For cutting, remove each spray when the first two blooms have opened.

Insects which trouble gardenias are thrips, red spider mites and mealy bugs. Mites may be combated by a daily spraying of the foliage with clear water. Thrips and mealy bugs may be handpicked, but will trouble the plant little if it is in robust health.